Tuning information supplied by BWR Suspension

Setting Race Sag

Setting the race sag is one of the most crucial steps in proper bike setup. Proper sag will allow your shock to be in the proper part of the travel throughout the suspension stroke. Also, proper sag is a tool that we use to make sure that your spring rate is correct.

Our baseline measurement is our first measurement.
This measurement should be taken with the bike on the Stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Measure from the axle to a fixed position on the
fender or frame.

This is where your friend comes in. Sitting on the bike in a neutral position have your friend take a measurement from the same two points. Write that measurement down, and subtract it from the measurement in Step 2.

With your race sag properly set, check your static sag. this measurement is taken with the bike on the ground sitting under it's own weight. To do this pull up on the rear fender and then allow the bike to drop

The sag measurements for each bike vary a little. With most full size bikes look for a race sag measurement between 95mm and 100mm, and the static sag measurement ending up at a point between 15mm and 25mm, with 20mm being perfect. If you get your race sag properly set but your static sag is less than 15mm, you will need a heavier spring to correct this measurement. The same goes if the static sag is greater than 25mm, except a lighter spring will be needed to correct the measurement.

The process of measuring sag is exactly the same on smaller bikes, but the numbers change. On 80cc-100cc bikes the race sag measurements that we are trying to get to are between 75mm and 80mm with between 15mm and 20mm of static sag. On 50cc-65cc minibikes the static measurements will stay the same as the 80cc division, but the race sag is between 60mm and 65mm.

After BWR Revalving you will find that shock clicker settings will be within 1 or 2 clicks from our original settings. If you are going from stock this process might take a bit longer. When making adjustments always go in small increments. One to two clicks at a time is plenty when changing suspension settings. After properly setting your race and static sag, and providing you are on the correct spring rates for your height and weight, it is time to move on to setting the clickers on the shock.

Shock Rebound
For shock rebound our intentions are timing the shock to respond to its initial position in time to hit the next obstacle without kicking. Too slow of rebound will cause the shock to pack or to stay down in the stroke on a series of bumps, while too fast rebound will cause a bike to kick on single hits. The first thing that I would like you to do is to hit a few single hits. If the bike wants to leave the jump with the front end low or bounce upon landing your rebound is too fast and should be slowed down. After you have done that find a series of bumps, or a whoop section and make several passes thru them. The bike should stay stable thru the section. If you experience problems midway or towards the end of the section the rear might be packing, and therefore you will have to speed up the rebound to compensate for it.

Shock Compression
When setting the shock compression there is one thing to remember: when set properly there should always be an obstacle on the track that your shock bottoms at least once per lap, but not harshly. First thing is to find a rough straight or a turn with acceleration bumps coming out of it. Our goal here is to use the compression clicker to allow the motorcycle to keep the wheel on the ground. If you feel the bike skipping off of bumps, soften the compression until the wheel stays on the ground. Then go to a big jump or g-out and hit that at speed. The bike should bottom, but not harshly. If it isn't bottoming soften the compression (high speed if available) until it does. If it is a harsh landing then stiffen the compression.

Fork Settings

Fork settings are crucial. We want our forks to be stiff enough to soak up the big bumps, yet be able to keep the wheel on the ground so we can make line changes instantly if needed. If you have just received your forks back from BWR take notice that we have preset the oil levels for your weight and the clicker adjustments will be within 1 or 2 clicks. Also if you have received you forks thru UPS or have had them laying flat you will need to compress them several times before installing them for bleeding purposes.

Fork Rebound
Setting fork rebound will allow your bike to turn properly and reduce headshake. Find a flat short sweeper and go thru it at speed. The front of the bike should track thru the turn on the line that you have chosen. If the front end wants to wash out to the outside of the turn then slow down your fork rebound. If the bike tends to tuck to the inside or over steer then the rebound is too slow and should be sped up.

Fork Compression
After setting the rebound find a rough section of the track. The bike should go thru this section on your chosen line without wanting to wander around. If the bike tends to move around, making direction changes difficult, soften the compression until the bike is stable. At this point find a big jump, or g-out. In this situation the bike should bottom lightly. If it bottoms harshly and you are on the correct spring rate for your height and weight you may need to add 5mm of oil to the forks.

Balance

Once you have gone thru your suspension settings you should notice that your bike is now balanced. To check the balance, stand on the left side of your bike. With both hands on the bars, pull in the front brake lever, and with your right foot push down on the left footpeg at the angle of the front forks. Both ends of the bike should compress and rebound at the same time.